Venice (the town)

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I just got back from Venice a few minutes ago. All the above is true, esp. getting lost. Hard to avoid getting lost. And you wouldn't want to. Allegedly, during the Republic, venice had about 200,000 residents, now it has only a third of that. This is an indication of how completely tourism drives the city which explains all the identical restaurants, the deserted alleyways after dark, and some of the weirdness. But not all of the weirdness--IT'S SO WEIRD! In a great way. The water was not high the past week, and the weather was nice, if cool and windy. But the place is still thronging with tourists and a bit much during the day. I thought the Ca' D'oro collection was a bit of a dud, although the exterior of the palazzo is astounding. The Accademia's collection didn't blow me away either with the exception of a few Titians. I didn't go in the Peggy Guggenheim because it was crawling with the worst kind of Americans and has been so fixed up in a so.cal. tract house sort of way, it was disgusting. Maybe my loss, but you can't see everything anyway. San Marco IS the creepiest church in the world. I went in every church I came to. Each one is so different, so strange, so appealing, so beautiful. It's heartrending, not to put too fine a point on it.

No one ever checked my ticket on the water bus either, although I did buy tickets each time. The ride down the Canale Grande is spectac. You want to cry at first. I had some good meals and some bad ones. At one place I just told the waiter to bring me whatever he felt like--this was in an outofthewaysomewhatlesstouristy neighborhood. I got a lot of interesting fish things of all descriptions. Wouldn't say it was good, but it was interesting!

Depending on your budget and your patience, you can stay in the town of Mestre (really a district of Venice on the mainland) and save a bundle. I got a room last night at the Hotel Giovannina on the Via Dante for EUR 32. Not great, but clean and about 5 minutes or less from the Mestre train station where you get a train into Venice for 1 or 2 euros and they run every ten minutes (Santa Lucia Station is the Venice terminal). The trip takes 10 minutes. There are also a passle of busses. But it might be worth it to you to pay more and stay IN Venice. The town of Mestre itself has a nice main square--of course it doesn't compare to anything in Venice.

What does compare to venice if you get claustrophobic and need a (very short) day trip away is Verona. Unbelievably beautiful. Takes about 45 min to an hour from Venice. So worth it. Padova is nice too, but not so pure. Old and new intermingled and spread out a bit, hard to get a grip on. But the Church of St. Anthony in Padova is worth a visit. Really amazing. And Padova is only 20 minutes away or so.

Vicenza is also nice for a few hours, not far, and Palladio's buildings are all over the place.

You really can't go wrong.

Skottie, Friday, 17 October 2003 15:10 (twenty years ago) link

amateurist,
You've probably gotten your accomodations set up by now, but in general I highly recommend taking a look at Eurocheapo.com That's how Nick and I found our hotel when we went to Paris and it was very cozy and beautiful.

Even if you're not going on vacation, it's fun to take a look at. And it's definitely great for daydreaming.

Sarah McLusky (coco), Friday, 17 October 2003 17:08 (twenty years ago) link

skottie's post makes me want to go back RIGHT NOW. have fun am!

jed (jed_e_3), Friday, 17 October 2003 19:00 (twenty years ago) link

i have to say i would highly recommend staying in venice itself
venice at night is amazing

robin (robin), Friday, 17 October 2003 20:46 (twenty years ago) link

I recommend staying in venice itself too--not that I did this time--but I waited till the last minute and all I could find online was like the Gritti Palace for EUR 350 a night. I didn't opt for the luxe option...god knows. Oh, it was gritty, just not Gritti. There have to be cheaper places to stay, though. priorities, priorities...sigh. I chose to ride the train/bus into town, and spent more on food than I normally would have. But again, it's venice and IT'S ALL GOOD!!!!!

Have a fun time!!!

Skottie, Friday, 17 October 2003 21:43 (twenty years ago) link

Oh, and I saw Bertolucci's "The Dreamers" while I was there. Granted in Italian. I thought it was a dud, although the girl is incredibly beautiful. The sex hype is a bit...well...hyped. It's got a lot of graphic sex, but in some ways, Bertol. pulls his punches. Ultimately a bit conventional.

HOWEVER, if someone has seen this in a language he/she actually speaks, please let me know if the dialogue is so good that the film is rendered worthwhile. I'm all ears!

Skottie, Friday, 17 October 2003 21:56 (twenty years ago) link

Well, amateurist, how's the trip going? Stop sightseeing and start spending more time in Internet cafes documenting the experiences you'd be having if you weren't in an Internet cafe documenting the experiences you'd be having if you weren't in an Inter....oh no!!!!!looping!!!!!

Skottie, Tuesday, 21 October 2003 03:48 (twenty years ago) link

i didn't check my email while i was there. i just got back two hours ago and am a little tired so i'll report back later in the week.

i can vouch for the goodness of tiramisu gelato, in case anyone's interested.

amateurist (amateurist), Wednesday, 22 October 2003 14:24 (twenty years ago) link

i started a blog the other day and wrote something about the book about venice i was talking about upthread,if anyone is interested,i'll probably put up a few quotes from it as well
i ended up sounding very formal when talking about it but i kept putting off writing anything so when i finally got around to writing something i had to go with it...
needless to say i reckon anyone who is curious enough about venice to even click on this thread would love the book...
invisibleleadsoup.blogspot.com is my address
i might write a bit more about venice on it in a while
(sorry for the blatant plug,might interest some of you though)

robin (robin), Wednesday, 22 October 2003 14:45 (twenty years ago) link

Okay, Amateurist, tick...tick...tick...how was the trip???

Skottie, Sunday, 26 October 2003 07:21 (twenty years ago) link

Okay, Amateurist, tick...tick...tick...how was the trip???
-- Skottie (n...), October 26th, 2003.

Ahem...

Skottie, Friday, 31 October 2003 18:28 (twenty years ago) link

one year passes...
Just like to say that the ILX travel guide came up trumps! I did a search, found this thread, and the Antico Capon hotel as recommended by Suzy is, indeed, reasonably priced and beautifully located. Campo Santa Margarita is so charming.

Japanese Giraffe (Japanese Giraffe), Tuesday, 6 September 2005 11:59 (eighteen years ago) link

seven years pass...

Pictures of recent flooding: http://m.theatlantic.com/infocus/2012/11/venice-under-water/100403/

Elvis Telecom, Tuesday, 13 November 2012 20:51 (eleven years ago) link

Was amazing to see fish swimming in St Mark's square a few years ago. The city remains almost totally navigable when flooded. They just roll out tables to walk on.

Go Narine, Go! (ShariVari), Tuesday, 13 November 2012 20:56 (eleven years ago) link

Venice (the town)

Rachel Howley-Waugh (Nilmar Honorato da Silva), Tuesday, 13 November 2012 21:04 (eleven years ago) link

two years pass...

Any recommendations (restaurants, cafes, etc) for Lido di Jesolo?

Ethnically Ambiguous / 28 - 45 (ShariVari), Sunday, 26 April 2015 10:16 (nine years ago) link

Our recommendation? Buy from local grocery stores and cook in the flat.

Actually, LDJ was good for street-pizza slices. More than that, oh it was 1983 its possibly changed since.

Mark G, Monday, 27 April 2015 06:47 (nine years ago) link

Street pizza is about 90% of what i eat when i'm in Italy so that's positive. Thanks.

Petite Lamela (ShariVari), Monday, 27 April 2015 07:39 (nine years ago) link

seven years pass...

Hello I'm here today
had a nice time. i haven't done any of the above recommendations :D
however likely to go to the caffe rosso for a spritz later at campo santa margherita per tradition

Really enjoyed going to 6342 A Le Tole to eat - I wouldn't recommend going out of the way for it but I like it, it's chaotic but in a good way that you'd enjoy if you are okay with your chair being bumped a couple of times during your meal. There's also a dude singing what seems to be the entire back catalogue of dire straits all night - so you know, only if you enjoy that sort of thing.

Covfefe and TV (ken c), Monday, 19 September 2022 07:25 (one year ago) link

My recommendation is aside from booking a table for dinner, don't try and over-plan your day - you'd just stress yourself out - you're on vacation in a place that's got sometime rather beautiful and interesting around each corner or dead ends.

And enjoy watching other people being stressed out (i really enjoy overhearing the arguments as folks get overtired from the walking)

Covfefe and TV (ken c), Monday, 19 September 2022 07:32 (one year ago) link

Possibly my favorite city on earth. It shouldn't exist but it does.

One of my vacation experiences was wandering from cicchetti places to minor churches for an entire day. Of course in Venice minor churches may have a Titian or Tintoretto hidden away.

Cannaregio at night off the main drag is so quiet and peaceful. Vino Vero is a sweet little wine bar with great snacks on Fondamenta Misercordia.

I've got tons of other wine bar recommendations if you're interested.

Abel Ferrara hard-sci-fi elevator pitch (PBKR), Monday, 19 September 2022 12:08 (one year ago) link

one year passes...

V interesting that there were protests by residents (500 people & riot police!) - unclear how many of those were libertarian nutjobs vs people protesting against an ineffective solution to a real problem. Apparently the fee is mostly aimed at deterring Italian day-trippers.

ledge, Friday, 3 May 2024 07:40 (four weeks ago) link

I think the fee is to deter cruise ships, since they stay on the ship not in Venice.

il lavoro mi rovina la giornata (PBKR), Friday, 3 May 2024 12:31 (four weeks ago) link

sorry, meant cruise ship passengers

il lavoro mi rovina la giornata (PBKR), Friday, 3 May 2024 12:32 (four weeks ago) link

I say, replicate this model and prevent the French from annoying the honest tourists trying to see the Eiffel tower, or the Spanish from entering Barcelona or using some of the already precious water in Tenerife. For Venice, augment it to 10 euros for people not on cruise ships. And tell the Dutch to see Kinderdijk on Mondays.

Nabozo, Friday, 3 May 2024 12:32 (four weeks ago) link

Just back from first visit to Venice and flyposters for this were everywhere - also what looked like some associated issues with public housing & tourism. I couldn't really get a political read on it either though it did seem more like 'an ineffective solution to a real problem'.

woof, Friday, 3 May 2024 14:10 (four weeks ago) link

Having seen the effect of tourism in various visits with my parents back to their place of birth I think "the problem" is the tourism industry and the way economies chase that dollar. A fee isn't becessarily going to stop it if everywhere else is applying this!

xyzzzz__, Friday, 3 May 2024 14:21 (four weeks ago) link


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